The Bentonite Hills near Hanksville, Utah, are a striking desert destination known for their colorful, layered clay formations. These hills, formed from volcanic ash and sediment during the Jurassic period, stand out for their unique textures and vibrant hues that shift with light and weather. Located near the Mars Desert Research Station, the landscape resembles Martian terrain, making it a favorite for photographers, geologists, and adventurers. While there are no official trails, visitors can explore the area freely, keeping in mind the fragile nature of the clay and the importance of preserving the site.
Key Highlights:
Geology: Layers of bentonite clay, part of the Morrison Formation, formed 140 million years ago.
Colors: Reds, purples, greens, and browns, influenced by minerals like iron oxides and manganese.
Best Times to Visit: Spring and fall for mild weather; sunrise and sunset for optimal lighting.
Access: Reachable via gravel roads from Hanksville; high-clearance vehicles recommended after rain.
Nearby Attractions: Goblin Valley State Park, Mars Desert Research Station, Factory Butte, and Capitol Reef National Park.
Plan ahead with water, navigation tools, and safety gear, and follow Leave No Trace principles to protect this fragile desert wonder.
Geology of the Bentonite Hills
Formation and Composition
Back in the Jurassic period, volcanic eruptions blanketed the region with ash, which mixed with mud, silt, and fine sand in ancient swamps and lakes. Over millions of years, this mix underwent a transformation process called diagenesis, turning the volcanic ash into bentonite clay, primarily made up of montmorillonite. These deposits formed distinct layers now recognized as the Brushy Basin shale member of the Morrison Formation, which is about 200 to 350 feet (60 to 105 meters) thick. The clay, rich in smectite, has a unique property: it swells when wet and shrinks as it dries, creating a textured, "popcorn-like" surface. Over time, erosion exposed these layers, shaping the rolling hills we see today and setting the stage for the vibrant colors that make the area so captivating [3] [4] [5].
Colors and Textures
The Bentonite Hills are a natural masterpiece of shifting colors, with hues that change depending on the light and weather. Earthy tones like brown, red, and gray mix with more striking shades such as purple, green, orange, maroon, and even indigo. These colors are tied to the minerals within the bentonite clay - quartz, iron oxides, manganese, and feldspar all play a role. For instance, iron oxides bring warm reds and oranges, while manganese adds deeper purples and maroons. The colors appear most vivid under soft, natural light, while harsh midday sun tends to dull them, creating a contrast to the saturated images often seen in photographs. The texture of the hills also changes with moisture: in dry conditions, the clay forms its signature popcorn-like surface, but after rain, it becomes slick and muddy, adding another layer of complexity to its appearance [6] [7] [2].
Scientific Importance
The Bentonite Hills are more than just visually stunning - they're a window into the Jurassic world and the history of the Morrison Formation. Their Martian-like terrain and the unique properties of bentonite clay provide valuable insights into weathering processes and clay mineral behavior. The way the clay responds to cycles of wet and dry conditions helps scientists better understand these geological processes. Beyond the scientific value, this fascinating narrative adds to the intrigue of the Bentonite Hills, making them a must-see destination for both researchers and adventurous travelers alike [3] [5] [6] [7] [2].
Planning Your Visit to the Bentonite Hills
Getting to the Bentonite Hills
Start your adventure in Hanksville, Utah, and follow the local gravel roads leading to the Bentonite Hills. Be aware that these roads can become tricky to navigate, especially after rain, as they may turn slick and challenging.
If the weather has been wet recently, a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle is your best bet. To stay updated on road conditions, contact the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) by calling 435-425-3791 (press 1, then 4).
Best Times to Visit
Spring and fall are the ideal seasons for exploring the Bentonite Hills. The weather during these times is usually mild, making it more enjoyable to hike and explore. Plus, road conditions tend to be more reliable. If you’re visiting in the summer, be ready for intense midday heat. To beat the heat and capture stunning photos, plan your outings for early morning or late afternoon when the lighting is at its best.
Winter trips can be stunning but require extra preparation. Snow and ice may complicate travel, so check the local weather forecast and be ready for sudden changes in conditions. Timing your visit with care and using local resources can make all the difference.
Local Services and Resources
Hanksville is your last stop for essentials, offering gas stations, basic accommodations, and dining options. Stock up here, as services become scarce once you leave town.
Since the Bentonite Hills are located on Bureau of Land Management property, free dispersed camping is allowed. This provides a fantastic opportunity to enjoy sunrise or sunset views right from your campsite.
Cell service in the area is spotty at best, so download offline maps before you go. If you’re traveling alone or planning to stay for an extended period, consider bringing a satellite communication device for emergencies.
Make sure to pack wisely. Bring at least 3 liters of water per person, snacks, a spare tire, a first aid kit, and blankets. If you’d rather not venture out on your own, guided tours are available. Several tour companies near Capitol Reef National Park in Torrey, Utah, offer expert-led trips to the Bentonite Hills, giving you a chance to explore with added convenience and insight.
Hiking and Enjoying the Landscape
Hiking and Safety Tips
The Bentonite Hills deliver a one-of-a-kind experience, but they demand careful preparation and respect for the environment. The fragile bentonite clay creates a distinct "popcorn-like" surface that becomes dangerously slippery when wet. Avoid hiking or driving in these conditions, as the clay not only poses a safety risk but also sustains long-term damage.
Since there are no official trails, it's essential to tread carefully. Stick to existing paths, natural washes, or previously disturbed areas to prevent harming undisturbed clay, which can take years to recover. Be on the lookout for hazards such as soft clay patches, loose rocks, and sudden drops in washes.
Proper gear is a must. Sturdy, supportive hiking boots will help you navigate the uneven terrain and reduce the risk of injuries. Given the limited cell service in this remote area, always inform someone of your plans and expected return time. If you're planning an extended hike, consider bringing a satellite communication device for added safety.
Sun protection is critical in Utah's intense climate. Use high SPF sunscreen, wear a hat, and bring UV-blocking sunglasses. Carry plenty of water, along with high-energy snacks and electrolytes to stay hydrated and energized. A well-stocked first aid kit is also essential for handling minor injuries like blisters or scrapes.
If you're staying for sunset or blue hour photography, pack a headlamp or flashlight to ensure you can safely navigate back to your vehicle after dark. These tools will also help you spot potential hazards along the way.
Leave No Trace Principles
The Bentonite Hills are part of one of Utah's most sensitive ecosystems, making it crucial for visitors to follow Leave No Trace principles. These unique clay formations are exceptionally vulnerable to human impact, so responsible behavior is key to preserving them for future generations.
Pack out all trash: Even small pieces of litter can disrupt the pristine beauty of the landscape. Dispose of waste properly in Hanksville instead of leaving it behind.
Stay on established paths: The bentonite clay may look tough, but footprints and tire tracks can scar the surface for years. Stick to areas that have already been disturbed and avoid stepping on vegetation, as desert plants grow and recover very slowly.
Respect wildlife: Observe animals from a distance and never feed them. Human interference can harm the delicate balance of the desert ecosystem, affecting animals' natural behaviors and food sources.
Nearby Attractions
The Bentonite Hills are also a great starting point for exploring other incredible sights in the area. Here are some nearby highlights to consider:
Goblin Valley State Park: Located just 15 miles away, this park is famous for its mushroom-shaped rock formations. A $20 vehicle fee applies, and visiting in the morning or late afternoon can help you avoid crowds, especially during weekends or spring break.
Mars Desert Research Station (MDRS): Less than a mile from the Bentonite Hills, this Mars surface research facility offers a unique photo opportunity at its entrance sign. While the station isn’t open to the public, its presence enhances the otherworldly feel of the area.
Factory Butte and Moonscape Overlook: Both less than 30 minutes away, these spots offer dramatic, rugged scenery. Moonscape Overlook, in particular, provides views that feel like stepping onto another planet.
Little Wild Horse Canyon and Bell Canyon: These slot canyons are ideal for hikers of varying skill levels and can be paired with a visit to Goblin Valley for a full day of adventure.
Capitol Reef National Park: About an hour to the east, this park offers stunning hikes like the Cathedral Valley Loop and Hickman Bridge Trail. While drones are prohibited in National Park Service areas, drone photography is generally allowed in the BLM-managed Bentonite Hills.
For those interested in history, the broader San Rafael Swell region is home to Fremont Indian Petroglyphs, offering a glimpse into the area's ancient past. Hanksville serves as a convenient base for exploring all these attractions, providing essential amenities like restaurants, gas stations, and supplies before heading into the remote wilderness.
Photography and Practical Tips
Photography Tips
The Bentonite Hills in Utah are a dream for photographers, offering vibrant, otherworldly landscapes. But to truly capture their beauty, timing and technique are everything. The way light interacts with the clay formations changes dramatically throughout the day, so planning your shots around the best lighting conditions is key.
The golden hour (just after sunrise and before sunset) is perfect for enhancing the reds, oranges, and purples of the bentonite clay. The soft, angled light adds depth and contrast that midday lighting simply can't match. During blue hour (just after sunset), the scene transforms, with the formations glowing softly against the deepening sky, creating a surreal, almost magical effect.
When it comes to gear, a polarizing filter is a must. It reduces glare and boosts color saturation, which is especially helpful with the reflective surfaces of bentonite. A graduated neutral density filter can balance the bright sky with the darker foreground, and always shoot in RAW format to give yourself more flexibility during editing. The bold colors and textures of the bentonite can be tricky to capture in JPEG without losing detail.
For lenses, a wide-angle lens (14-24mm) is ideal for showcasing the vastness and scale of the landscape. But don't ignore the potential of a telephoto lens (70-200mm). Zooming in on specific formations can reveal intricate textures and patterns, turning the landscape into abstract art.
Weather plays a big role in photography here. Light cloud cover can soften harsh shadows while keeping the colors vibrant. After rain, pools of water may form in the clay depressions, creating stunning reflections. However, be cautious - wet clay can be slippery and fragile, making it unsafe to walk on.
For composition, use the natural curves and ridges of the formations as leading lines to guide the viewer's eye through your image. Contrast between the smooth clay and the rugged desert backdrop adds drama, and including foreground elements like weathered clay pieces or desert plants can provide depth and scale.
While these tips can elevate your photos, always prioritize safety in this challenging desert environment.
Safety and Preparedness
Photographing the Bentonite Hills is as much about preparation as it is about creativity. The remote desert location demands careful planning and respect for the environment to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.
Start with water - bring at least one gallon per person per day, and pack extra if you plan to spend extended hours shooting. The dry air and high elevation can dehydrate you quickly, especially in summer when temperatures often soar above 100°F. Electrolyte supplements can help you stay hydrated and energized.
Navigation is another critical consideration. Offline maps and GPS are essential, as cell service is unreliable. A dedicated GPS device or compass is a good backup, and double-check your parking location to avoid getting lost in the similar-looking terrain, particularly in low light.
Pack a first aid kit with essentials like blister pads, pain relievers, and bandages for minor scrapes. A whistle can help you signal for assistance, and a satellite communication device like a Garmin inReach is invaluable for emergencies, especially if you're exploring solo.
Protect your gear from the area's fine, pervasive dust. Bring lens cleaning supplies and consider using UV filters to shield your lenses. When moving from an air-conditioned car to the hot outdoors, let your equipment acclimate gradually to prevent condensation.
Seasonal Comparisons
The Bentonite Hills offer something unique in every season, but the time of year you visit can significantly impact both your photos and your experience. Here's a quick breakdown of what to expect:
